DIY Throwing Knife Target
Over 20 years ago I walked into a martial arts studio and spoke with the instructor. I wanted to learn stick fighting, I figured you can find a stick pretty much anywhere. He had some throwing knives on his desk and after speaking with each other for a while, asked me to step out back with him.
In the military I had thrown knives and entrenching tools a little bit, not knowing what situations we would be in. I had never been taught how to use a throwing knife, axe, or entrenching tool. This was my first lesson.
The instructor showed me the proper grip and gave me instructions on how to find the correct distance. The main thing is consistency, practice builds consistency. Well I needed a target to practice. I used every scrap of wood I could find, but never had a proper target.
Recently I had the urge to throw knives again and bought some knives like the ones I bought over 20 years ago and found materials for a target. This set of 3 Throwing Knives https://amzn.to/3kSxy1m are about the same as my first set. I like having knives with a little weight behind them.
This is how I built my target, based on the design I practiced on during my first lesson. I used scrap wood found on the property. Otherwise it should not cost much for lumber and screws to build this target. The tools I used are also listed, the links are affiliate links, a commission may be earned.
I started off with some old stairs on the property that needed to be torn down. That gave me several 2X6’s to base the target on. I used the rails to build the frame and stand. Wear personal protective equipment. I wore safety glasses, hearing protection and gloves when needed.
A note about board measurements. A board marked as a 2-inch-wide board is really 1 ½ inches wide. The board started as 2 inches before it was trimmed smooth at the lumber yard. A 2X6 is really 1 ½ X 5 ½ inches.
I measured the old 2X6 stair treads (24 inches) and cut 2 2X4’s that were the same length as the stair tread. These will be the sides of the frame. I put the finished dimensions in a list below. I bought this tape measure pack https://amzn.to/3kPkjP4.
I stacked the 2X6 stair treads and measured the total stack (or count them and multiply by 1.5). I had 7 stair treads; math says 10 ½ inches (is measured 11 inches) for the stack. If there is any debris or warping of the boards doing math will come up a little short. After measuring them, I cut 2 boards. The top and bottom boards I made 3 inches longer than the total for the stack.
I cut 2 more boards for the back of the frame. These both were cut using the same measurement of the stack plus 3 inches. This is a small project, I used a Craftsman circular saw like this https://amzn.to/3eemF7k. If you have a larger project or need more exact cuts a 10-inch miter saw might be better for you. This is one I have been using for projects here https://amzn.to/2HTnAOP.
That is a total of 4 2X4’s cut 3 inches longer than the stack measurement. These boards will be the top and bottom of the frame and the back of the frame keeping the target boards in place.
I then stood up with a board and marked an approximate height for my target. I cut 2 2X4’s to match this height and the target frame will be attached to these target stand legs.
This is what I used for my target. Use what you have or what you feel will work best for you. This is a guide to help you make your own.
I have learned that the correct height for a competition target is 50 inches to center of bullseye, or 60 inches. There is a V pattern with the center target at 50 inches and the outer targets at 60 inches. That also seems to depend on what competition rules you follow.
Materials:
2X4inch boards
2 – 60 inches (target stand legs)
2 – 24 inches (target frame sides)
1 – 14 inches (target frame top)
1 – 14 inches (target frame bottom)
2 – 14 inches (target frame back)
2X6 inch boards
7 – 24 inches (target boards, a little warped 11inches when stacked)
Hillman No 8 2 ½ inch screws https://amzn.to/34IuQWq (25 or less of these should work, unless you screw into the back)
Craftsman tape measure https://amzn.to/3kPkjP4.
Craftsman Circular saw https://amzn.to/3eemF7k.
Craftsman Miter saw https://amzn.to/2HTnAOP.
Black & Decker Cordless Driver https://amzn.to/3oJTSfM (18v or 20v has enough power to sink these screws).
Assembly was quick. I used 3 screws to attach the legs to the sides of the target frame in an L shape. I next measured down the length of the target boards and attached the base (you can also hold a target board up next to the frame and mark the board length). The top of the target frame was screwed into the top of the 2 target frame sides. The remaining 2 boards are the back of the target frame. This gave me a 5-inch-deep pocket to put my target boards into. I used a Black & Decker Cordless Drill Driver like this: https://amzn.to/3oJTSfM .
It is a tight fit, and I loosened the top board of the frame to have an easier time getting the target boards in. Once in, I tightened the top board back down and moved my target out into position. I like this situation because I can replace boards whenever I wear one out, or maybe turn it around. I also keep the screws out to the sides as much as possible to remove any metal on the inside of the target.
My target is a little bit narrow, but it works for me. If I had more stair treads, I would have made it wider. Make yours to fit you.
I have seen other ways to make a target. One method is to use a large round from a downed tree. Another is having the ends of the boards facing the knife thrower. They glue all of it together and use screws to hold the board ends in place.
If you don’t have any experience with knife throwing, check out this guy. He covers multiple techniques. Twenty years ago I learned the full spin method and think the half spin method would be better. I have not had great success with changing though.
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